Larry J. Cruz - Restaurateur

In order to pay tribute to the memory of Emilio Aguilar Cruz better known as "Abe", his son Larry Cruz, a journalist in his own right, approached my uncle Nick Joaquin to ask him if he could consider contributing to Abe's coming biography.

This was years after Larry's father's death. Larry knew that there was enough substance and material with which to put a publication about his father and his works. So, Larry narrates this story when he approached Nick. "One afternoon, I got a phone call from Nick and he sounded angry. in his usual loud voice, he demanded to know why I was asking him to write a piece on Abe for the collection.

'I thought you'd be pleased to contribute, Nick, ' I muttered. 'I don't want to write a chapter," he bellowed. 'I want to write the whole book myself.'

Taken aback, I said something about my not being able to afford his established and upscale fee - [well known among the Filipino literati] for a commissioned biography, nor even half of it.

"Nonsense, he growled"Now don't you start scrimping on your own father, you sonnamagan Jew!" he pressed on. "I'll do it for such a pittance you will be embarrassed to say no. '

Nick named a figure I could not believe to be true. "If you give me half of that now," he said. "I"ll finish the book right away and you can pay me the rest after I'm done."

Two years later, he was autgraphing for Larry the original completed manuscript.

As is the writing ritual of Nick Joaquin, he writes with at least a case of San Miguel Pale PIlsen beer beside him. Nick completed the book in three months - acccompanied by several cases of beer. Larry and family were a bit worried that Nick who was already over 80 at the time might not finish the book since he was, believe it or not, often taking nothing but beer the whole day - and especially in the evenings while he does the rounds of watering holes and social events around Manila.

Larry continues in his introduction to Abe's book.

"Ever since my father died, I had been thinking of publishing a book about his life and times. ...Years pass and nothing happens and then you realize time may be running out on you.

"Hurry up, said Carmen 'Chitang' G. Nakpil "before we all go." The book was launched on December 2006. It was the last biography that Nick wrote for he died on April 29, 2004.

Last Monday, February 4, Larry J. Cruz passed away in Washington, DC. He was 66 years old. Larry was in the U.S. for treatment of his cancer. At the time of his death, Larry also a journalist, was chairman and chief executive officer of the LJC Consultancy Management Inc. which managed the following restaurants - Cafe Adriatico, Cafe Havana, Bistro Remedios, Bollywood, Mojito Bay, Tandoor King, Abe, and Fely J.

Cruz began his career writing news for radio and TV, worked in Asia magazine and later other culture and arts magazines with veteran editors like Johnny Gatbonton.

He carried over this passion for print media when he became head of the Bureau of National and Foreign Information (BNFI) under then Press Secretary Francisco Tatad during the 1970s in the Marcos years.

At the helm of BNFI, Cruz published culture and arts periodicals, the coverage and depth of which remain unmatched to this day. He was also assistant press secretary in the Marcos years.

In time Cruz had the LJC Group of restaurants, opening in malls and introducing concepts that would be copied. He had just opened Fely J’s Kitchen Asian and Filipino cooking as a tribute to his mom.

Kapampangan cuisine

In 2006, Cruz opened the wildly successful Abe, serving Kapampangan cuisine, as a tribute to his father.

In 2007, he developed the four-hectare Abe’s Farm in Magalang, Pampanga, named after his father. A portion is occupied by Larry’s weekend country home, which is more like an enlarged bahay kubo.

The farm is open to groups of 10 to a hundred who need to book themselves for workshops or weddings at package rates.

Digitizing files, photos

According to longtime associate Glenna Aquino, Cruz was also digitizing all the restaurant files and photo archives for a library that a new generation of hotel and restaurant students could use and learn from.

Cruz knew not only good food; he knew the good life, and loved good knowledge he gleaned from books, magazines and his travels. A renaissance man to the end, he had taste.

When we asked him how he wanted his biography to be titled, he said, “Larry can’t cook.”

[Excerpted with reports from Cynthia D. Balana and the Philippine Inquirer Research Group]